Founded on a creed of elevated simplicity, Toklas’ exquisite menus, wines and events have distinguished the Mediterranean restaurant as a London hot spot. From launching its first edition of cuvées last year to hosting monthly wine tastings and decadent gatherings, Toklas has cultivated a steadfast community of art and food aficionados since it opened in 2021. Established by Frieze Art Fair cofounders Matthew Slotover OBE and Amanda Sharp, hints of the pair’s artistic leanings are reflected in Toklas’ decor and scrumptious treats by head chef Chris Shaw. In recognition of the restaurant’s ingenuity, we spoke to Slotover and Toklas’ head of beverages Agustina Basilico about their extensive wine list, forays into the art world and collaboration with Turner Prize-winning artist and friend Lubaina Himid CBE.
“Amanda and I met when we were 18 and discussed opening a restaurant before we talked about doing Frieze,” begins Slotover. “It’s a fascinating industry that I wanted to learn about and hopefully contribute to.” Today, his restaurant neighbours prestigious art and culture institutions like Somerset House and The Courtauld Gallery, while simultaneously holding its own unique ties to the art world. The first clue is in the establishment’s name — a nod to writer and primo bohemian Alice B. Toklas. Together with her partner, the celebrated novelist Gertrude Stein, Alice threw intricate dinner parties in Paris for some of the greatest artists of the early 20th century.
Toklas’ art connections deepen as you enter the restaurant and spy works by acclaimed photographer Wolfgang Tillmans and painter Ragna Bley. “The restaurant’s interior design is quite purposeful,” says Basilico, pointing to a bar wall decorated with a patchwork of art posters from the last 40 years. “From artworks to posters of exhibitions, artists and curators who are our friends, the restaurant’s design has kind of become a creative outlet for us, as much as the food itself,” says Slotover. Art and wine have long conspired with one another to enhance the human experience.
Constantly valued for their provenance, age and quality, rare wines and art are regular headliners for auctions at renowned houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s. “I think both wine and art can be very obsessive areas,” says Slotover, who has often found that buying wine is like buying art from a gallery. “You’ve got the winemakers or artists, the buyers or collectors and then the distributors who guide you like galleries do with artists.” Wine also often accompanies life drawing, exhibition receptions, and other such events, punctuating the art market calendar. With this in mind, Toklas’ artistic flair feels like a welcome and natural pairing; much like a glass of Pinot Noir with an earthy mushroom risotto.
Cradled within the circumference of the Strand, Toklas is a jewel in London’s coronet of dynamic food establishments. A pared-back, spacious bar, open kitchen and downstairs bakery greets guests. The ‘brasserie’ tone continues with a vintage parquet floor, Børge Mogensen chairs, emerald leather banquettes, open grill and menus designed by contemporary artist Allison Katz. Perhaps the star of the show is the restaurant’s own edition of cuvées — red, white and rosé — a trio collaboratively made by Toklas and Provence winemaker Valérie Courrèges. “Valérie is an incredible human,” says Basilico. “She was here two weeks ago for an annual wine tasting wearing fake fur and smoking cigars. She’s an icon.”
For this first edition of cuvées, Toklas commissioned Turner Prize-winning artist Lubaina Himid CBE to paint colourful limited edition labels. “There’s a good history of artists designing wine bottles and menus,” says Slotover. He notes artists like David Hockney, who once designed the Neal Street restaurant menu, as well as a label for Château Mouton Rothschild. (The label has also been designed by artists Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Dorothea Tanning and Francis Bacon over the years). For her part, Himid used her signature palette of vibrant hues to paint rows of elegantly simplistic bottles in shades of crimson, blushing pink and citrus. “Lubaina Himid has got an incredible career,” says Basilico of the painter known for being one of the UK’s most important contributors to the British Black arts movements, and the first Black woman to win the Turner Prize. “For a female artist and female winemaker to unite like this is quite powerful in this day and age.”
Grown from the clay and limestone soils of Cotignac, each cuvée comes with its own taste profiles and pairings. The ‘Toklas White Edition’, for instance, is reportedly fresh and supple with notes of mandarin and lemon. Each wine’s rounded character speaks of the precision and care behind its production. “We strongly believe that chemical additives are wrong, whether they’re included in the growing or making process,” says Slotova. “So, we wanted to partner with winemakers who care about sustainability, from the grapes to the long-term quality of the soil.” The cuvées sit nicely alongside Toklas’ expansive collection of largely sustainably produced natural wines. “The term natural wine is quite broad, and there are a million books by a million wine writers trying to describe what natural wine is,” says Basilico. “For me, it’s wine that is alive and clean. If you have sensitive taste buds, you can taste the minerality of the grapes’ birthplace.” Crafted using sustainable, organic, biodynamic or regenerative methods, these natural wines are marked by a • symbol on the menu.
Together with Finnish sommelier Heidi Mäkinen, Basilico has almost tripled the wine list since she first arrived at Toklas. “Heidi has a traditional palette, and I try to push the boundaries to keep us on trend with London’s wine landscape,” she says. The result is an emporium of contemporary and traditional wines that can sometimes be served from kegs, reducing the wine’s carbon footprint by 75%. Originally from Argentina, Basilico has resisted the urge to place more than one Malbec on the menu (a traditionally full-bodied, dark-coloured red wine made from Argentina’s signature grape variety). “I’ve only added one edition,” says Basilico. “Our menu doesn’t include red meat, so there’s no need for a heavy wine.”
While Toklas’ bakery has been noted by Timeout magazine for its breakfast viennoiserie of flaky croissants, pain au chocolat and cardamom buns, the restaurant’s Mediterranean-infused cuisine deserves its own ovation. “Simple food expertly cooked at Toklas will put you on a high – and that’s before you even get to the chips,” wrote renowned food critic Jay Rayner in 2022. Most recently, the restaurant hosted a series of citrus-inspired dinner parties showcasing the literal fruits of their partnership with Todolí Citrus Fundació, a foundation created for the research and conservation of citrus biodiversity. It grows over 500 varieties of citrus and was founded by none other than Spanish art curator and former Tate director Vicent Todolí. “Vicent met our founders Matthew and Amanda on the art circuit,” says Basilico. “When the partnership began, we formed a group of restaurants and split the fruits between all of us. This grew exponentially over three years, and now there are over 150 restaurants in London benefitting from Todolí citrus.”
For its recent citrus-inspired dinner, Toklas paired segments of Todolí’s citrus fruits with dishes like wild sea bass crudo, radicchio and ricotta salata. The Spanish countryside also permeates through the bakery’s seasonal citrus salad; a festival of beetroots roasted and bathed in a dressing of their own juices, red wine vinegar and segments of Todolí’s blood oranges and grapefruits. Striking a balance between the dish’s aromatic sweetness and acidity is an art form in itself. “I often think chefs and artists have a lot in common,” says Slotova. “They take elements that have no value and create something fantastic. It’s partly about execution and partly intellectual.”
Toklas’ holistic approach to its wine and artistic values will continue with a wine tasting on June 19th. The event is a meet-and-greet between Olly of Emile Wines: a London-based, female-founded wine importer and retailer offering authentic, largely biodynamic wines from Burgundy and the classic regions of France.
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words. Raegan Rubin